Saturday, November 26, 2011

Veselé Vánoce

Yesterday was the start of the Christmas Season here in Brno. There is a huge outdoor market in Svobody náměstí (Freedom Square) and it begins when the Christmas tree is lit. We grabbed some hot wine and waited for the lights to come on.

It seemed that I was the only excited one because I've never been to a big tree lighting ceremony. Turns out, its not that exciting. It was fun to do the count down, in Czech, with everyone in the center but the actual turning on of the lights was a bit of a let down. They could have had some fireworks or something...

But the tree is HUGE! It'll stay up until the day after Christmas. The market will be open until Christmas Eve.



Churros! Traditional Czech food, dontcha know.


Forgive the horrible photo of me, but Santa was there!

Oh, that is not snow in the pictures, just some flurries. Can't leave the room without two pairs of pants now!

Tuesday, November 22, 2011


DLM. 1989-2009


Indescribable

Auschwitz.
photo from Chris

I have been trying to work out this post in my head for close to 2 weeks.

After we left there, we were trying to talk about it, how we felt and what we saw. The word we came back to is "indescribable". Nothing I say can truly explain the feeling of being there. Seeing this place that should be barren and wasted, with no sunshine, no life at all. But, it was still there. The grass was green, the sky was blue, the air was cold and fresh. After all the horrors that land had seen, it still went on.

The tour began in Auschwitz. We were led by a guide through buildings that held possessions of the victims. Rooms filled with adult and children's shoes, clothing, hairbrushes, shaving brushes, piles of eye glasses, prosthetic limbs and suitcases covered with their owners names. The names were there because the Nazis told them that they would need to claim their items after their shower. There was also a room full of human hair, taken from the victims. Long, short, curly, straight, black, brown, grey; every kind you can think of. Hair was taken and made into fabric, some of which was used to make socks for submariners.

We saw the prison cells where prisoners were held in isolation, starvation, light deprivation, standing cells and suffocation cells. The commandant had his home right next to this building.

We were then taken to Auschwitz-Birkenau.


This camp is 30x's bigger than Auschwitz. When you walk in, the place seems to be too big. Almost like there is no way that something this big happened. On the right is the Men's side, where there were over 300 barracks, in which men slept 9 to a bunk, 4 bunks to a bed, 20+ beds to a barrack. One the right side is the Women's, where at one time they put 700 women in a barrack and barred the doors.

When the prisoners arrived at Auschwitz-Birkenau, they arrived in train carts. When they exited the carts, they were immediately put through "Selection". A SS Doctor looked at each person and said either "right" or "left". Labor or death. Those told to go Left, 3/4 of the arrivals, were then sent down Death Road. Which led to the gas chambers.


Walking down that road was surreal. We were in a place were thousands of people literally took their last breaths, saw the sun for the last time, held their children's hands for the last time. We were just walking there. Our mood was somber, in fact the whole place was quiet. Our tour guide spoke just above a whisper. Every once in a while a child would make a noise, and it was almost shocking that someone could break the silence.

Then we came to the crematoriums.

Before liberation, the Nazi blew up the 2 remaining crematoriums, leaving the ruins. Those ruins are still there. Untouched. There is now a large memorial between them, with messages in many different languages, asking that the world not forget what happened here.



What sticks with me the most is how incredibly green the grass surrounding the crematoriums was.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Krakow, Poland

Last weekend Tonje, Chris, Greg and I visited Krakow. Getting there was not as easy as our other trips but thankfully Chris is good at figuring out the little details. We hopped on a train at 7am in Brno, switched trains 2 hours later (with a 5 minute window) and 45 minutes on that train we were at the border of the CZR and Poland. Since, for some reason, there is no train that goes straight to Krakow, we got off there and proceeded to cross and bridge and enter Poland. We got some Polish Złoty (1 USD = 3 pln) and found the bus station. Chris found a bus service that will take us straight to Krakowin 3 hours. Turns out the "bus" isn't really that. An oversized van with seating for 20 people and no heater. But, it could have been much worse and we got there with no problem. Minus me hitting some lady in the face with my backpack, that was all me.

who eats sushi at 7 am? Tonje does.

Tonje found our hostel, Nathan's Villa Hostel Krakow, and it was only 14 Euro for the entire weekend! It's in a good location and has a bar in the basement. Perfect for us! We set out to find some food and plan the weekend. The hostel had brochures for tours of Auschwitz and the Wieliczka Salt Mines. We knew it would be a long day, but we needed to visit both of those places. (I'll make Auschwitz-Birkenau it's own post, there needs to be a gravity when I talk about it.)

The culprit

Well, it turns out that Polish beer is much, much, much stronger than Czech beer and we ended our night early. And morning came way to fast. Lets just say, I was not exactly steady when we left Saturday morning, which amused my friends so much. Between the Polish beer and my anxiety about visiting a former concentration camp, my stomach was rolling. But I made it through the day with only a little blip and I am better for having seen the camp. After the camp, we visited the Wielczka Salt Mine. Here's what the Krakow website has to say about it...

The Wieliczka Salt Mine, nowadays practically on the southeast outskirts of Krakow, has been worked for 900 years. It used to be one of the world's biggest and most profitable industrial establishments when common salt was commercially a medieval equivalent of today's oil. Always a magnet, since the mid-18th century Krakow's Wieliczka salt mine has become increasingly a tourist attraction in the first place. Today visitors walk underground for about 2,000 m in the oldest part of the salt mine and see its subterranean museum, which takes three hours or so.

Nine centuries of mining in Wieliczka produced a total of some 200 kilometers of passages as well as 2,040 caverns of varied size. The tourist route starts 64 m deep, includes twenty chambers, and ends 135 m below the earth surface, where the world's biggest museum of mining is located with the unique centuries-old equipment among its exhibits.

Occasionally concerts and other events take place in the Wieliczka mine’s biggest chambers.

There is a sanatorium for those suffering from asthma and allergy situated 135 meters deep underground in the Wieliczka Salt Mine.

UNESCO has entered the Wieliczka Salt Mine in its World Heritage Register.


It was very cool to see all of the caves and carvings and to be that deep in the ground! The salt purifies the air and Tonje and I swear that our skin was smoother after being down there!


Pictures to come!


Saturday, November 5, 2011

Because we don't spend enough time together, Tonje and I have our morning skype session.


Walking between our two buildings takes too long and it's cold outside!